18 February 2021
Catholic, Lutheran and Armenian Churches of Nevsky Prospect. A Walk Through Epochs
When you stroll around the main avenue of St. Petersburg, do you realise that most churches that you see there, apart from the magnificent Kazan Cathedral and the Church on the Spilled Blood, are actually not Russian Orthodox?
St. Petersburg was a multinational city since the day of its foundation and all Christian confessions were represented there. Their main places of worship were situated along Nevsky Prospect. Therefore, today you will find the Catholic Basilica, Armenian Orthodox Church and several Lutheran churches in the very heart of the city.
Before the revolution, these churches were bustling with life and had thousands of parishioners, but under communism, when the religions were forbidden, they were turned into gyms, swimming pools or workshops. Luckily, today most of them have become churches again and now you can visit them free of charge to feel the spirit of the past centuries, warm up on a cold or rainy day, have a break from the busy Nevsky, use restrooms or even get some tea with pirozhki!
Let us take the virtual walk together first and find out more about the history and the present-day life of these beautiful churches. Trust me, most visitors of the city and locals know nothing about them and they have never been inside. Just like me not a long time ago. And they miss out so much!
All the churches on our route are free to visit for everyone, no matter what religious beliefs you have! They are situated very close to each other and you can get around all of them within one hour.
Map of the walk
St. Petersburg was a multinational city since the day of its foundation and all Christian confessions were represented there. Their main places of worship were situated along Nevsky Prospect. Therefore, today you will find the Catholic Basilica, Armenian Orthodox Church and several Lutheran churches in the very heart of the city.
Before the revolution, these churches were bustling with life and had thousands of parishioners, but under communism, when the religions were forbidden, they were turned into gyms, swimming pools or workshops. Luckily, today most of them have become churches again and now you can visit them free of charge to feel the spirit of the past centuries, warm up on a cold or rainy day, have a break from the busy Nevsky, use restrooms or even get some tea with pirozhki!
Let us take the virtual walk together first and find out more about the history and the present-day life of these beautiful churches. Trust me, most visitors of the city and locals know nothing about them and they have never been inside. Just like me not a long time ago. And they miss out so much!
All the churches on our route are free to visit for everyone, no matter what religious beliefs you have! They are situated very close to each other and you can get around all of them within one hour.
Map of the walk
Stop 1
Catholic Basilica of St. Catherine
32-34 Nevsky Prospect
Presently it is the oldest catholic church of the city. You will easily identify its entrance - it is situated just behind the street market with the numerous landscapes of St. Petersburg by local artists, that works even in wintertime!
This beautiful temple was initially constructed in baroque according to Pietro Trezzini's drawings in 1738, but it was finished only by 1783 by Jean-Baptiste Vallin de la Mothe and Antonio Rinaldi with interiors in classicism, the favourite style of empress Catherine the Great, who reigned the country at that time. It was consecrated in honour of St. Catherine, the patron saint of the empress.
Catholic Basilica of St. Catherine
32-34 Nevsky Prospect
Presently it is the oldest catholic church of the city. You will easily identify its entrance - it is situated just behind the street market with the numerous landscapes of St. Petersburg by local artists, that works even in wintertime!
This beautiful temple was initially constructed in baroque according to Pietro Trezzini's drawings in 1738, but it was finished only by 1783 by Jean-Baptiste Vallin de la Mothe and Antonio Rinaldi with interiors in classicism, the favourite style of empress Catherine the Great, who reigned the country at that time. It was consecrated in honour of St. Catherine, the patron saint of the empress.
Pietro Trezzini worked a lot on the construction of churches for various confessions in St. Petersburg and he was a distant relative of Domenico Trezzini, one of the first architects of the city, whose name you will hear many times during city tours. Both of them were Swiss.
Before the revolution, it was a cathedral with more than 30 000 believers in its parish. Now it has around 1000 believers, but it does not look empty, especially compared to Lutheran churches that we will visit later, there is always someone inside coming for a few minutes to lit a candle or pray. I was surprised to find out that many locals in St. Petersburg are still practicing Catholicism, especially those of them who had Polish ancestors.
Poles were the most numerous community in the parish of the church before the revolution, among others were French, Italians, Lithuanians, Latvians, Germans and even Russians.
Poles were the most numerous community in the parish of the church before the revolution, among others were French, Italians, Lithuanians, Latvians, Germans and even Russians.
Polish King Stanislaus II Augustus is buried in the church. He got the power thanks to Catherine II and they even had a daughter together. After his expulsion from Poland, he settled down in St. Petersburg.
Its Soviet history is sad and mirrors the fate of many religious temples of our city, from Christian churches to the Buddhist datsan. Although it was functioning up to 1938, its rectors were repressed by the Bolsheviks – they were either shot or exiled. In 1938 the church was closed, its huge library was destroyed and its sacred images, crosses and sculptures were thrown out on the street.
During the Soviet Era only a few Orthodox churches, a mosque and a synagogue were functioning in Leningrad. Many cathedrals and churches were either demolished or rebuilt as warehouses or educational institutions.
The church was turned into the storage space and burnt down twice, in 1947 and in 1984. In 1992, after the collapse of the Soviet Union it was returned to the Catholic church in a very bad condition. As soon as it happened, the families of former parishioners of the church returned some of the relics, that they saved when it was looted in 1938.
Among them was an old altar cross, that you can see on the right picture above – this part of the church is kept the way it looked like before the restoration. The whole church looked like that back in 1992 – can you see how much work has been done by the restorers?
Today it is the only basilica in Russia, it has Sunday school and regular masses in Russian, Polish, English and Spanish. Very often it is also used as the venue for concerts, you can visit them either free of charge or for a symbolic fee.
Among them was an old altar cross, that you can see on the right picture above – this part of the church is kept the way it looked like before the restoration. The whole church looked like that back in 1992 – can you see how much work has been done by the restorers?
Today it is the only basilica in Russia, it has Sunday school and regular masses in Russian, Polish, English and Spanish. Very often it is also used as the venue for concerts, you can visit them either free of charge or for a symbolic fee.
Stop 2
Armenian Church of St. Catherine
40-42 Nevsky Prospect
This exquisite church of aquamarine colour stands behind the facades of two buildings just a few steps away from our previous stop.
Armenian merchants and craftsmen were invited to St. Petersburg by Peter the Great as soon as the city was founded. Today St. Petersburg has a very large Armenian community.
This church and the buildings around were built in the 1770-s to the design by Yury Felten on the money of the head of Armenian community Ivan Lazarev (Ovanes Lazaryan). Lazarev was the court jeweller and it was him who brought the huge diamond Orlov to Russia, that was encrusted into the Imperial Sceptre of Catherine II. Now you can see it in the Diamond Fund of Moscow Kremlin.
As empress Catherine II granted the place for the church, it was consecrated in honour of her heavenly patroness – St. Catherine.
As you can see, there are quite a few churches named after St. Catherine in our city and now you know that most of them were built in classical style during the reign of the most famous empress on the Russian throne, in the second half of the 18th century.
Armenian Church of St. Catherine
40-42 Nevsky Prospect
This exquisite church of aquamarine colour stands behind the facades of two buildings just a few steps away from our previous stop.
Armenian merchants and craftsmen were invited to St. Petersburg by Peter the Great as soon as the city was founded. Today St. Petersburg has a very large Armenian community.
This church and the buildings around were built in the 1770-s to the design by Yury Felten on the money of the head of Armenian community Ivan Lazarev (Ovanes Lazaryan). Lazarev was the court jeweller and it was him who brought the huge diamond Orlov to Russia, that was encrusted into the Imperial Sceptre of Catherine II. Now you can see it in the Diamond Fund of Moscow Kremlin.
As empress Catherine II granted the place for the church, it was consecrated in honour of her heavenly patroness – St. Catherine.
As you can see, there are quite a few churches named after St. Catherine in our city and now you know that most of them were built in classical style during the reign of the most famous empress on the Russian throne, in the second half of the 18th century.
Yury Felten designed many churches in St. Petersburg for various Christian confessions, he worked mainly in classicism. Another important work is Lutheran Annenkirche on Kirochnaya and Furshtadskaya Streets.
In 1930, the church was shut down and rebuilt for storage purposes – its hall was divided into 2 floors. At some point, it housed the set design workshops of the nearby Theatre of Musical Comedy. In 1992, it was returned to the Armenian community who immediately started the restoration works. It was re-consecrated as the church in 2000.
Inside it has been better preserved than other churches on our route - the oil paintings of the 18th century survived, although artificial marble on the columns and natural marble on the floor were lost in the Soviet era – these details were recreated during the restoration.
Inside it has been better preserved than other churches on our route - the oil paintings of the 18th century survived, although artificial marble on the columns and natural marble on the floor were lost in the Soviet era – these details were recreated during the restoration.
Armenians have been professing Christianity since the 4th century. Armenian Apostolic Church is one of the oldest in the world and it belongs to Oriental Orthodoxy.
Today St. Catherine Armenian Church has a Sunday school and printing house again, as well as the cultural centre, youth union and a dental clinic for financially distressed community members.
Almost all the main churches of Lutheran communities of St. Petersburg were situated in a small area between Malaya Konyshennaya and Bolshaya Konyshennaya Streets - you can see it on the map above. These are the churches of German, Finnish, Swedish, Dutch and French Protestant communities. Our second part of the walk is devoted to them!
Let's translate the names of these streets first! Konyshennaya means – Stable, Bolshaya – Big, Malaya – Small. Many streets and avenues in old St. Petersburg have the word Bolshaya/Bolshoi and Malaya/Maly in their names, just as some theatres in Moscow do!
Let's translate the names of these streets first! Konyshennaya means – Stable, Bolshaya – Big, Malaya – Small. Many streets and avenues in old St. Petersburg have the word Bolshaya/Bolshoi and Malaya/Maly in their names, just as some theatres in Moscow do!
Stop 3
Petrikirche
Official name - Lutheran Church of St. Peter and Paul
22-24 Nevsky Prospect
Petrikirche, just like the Armenian church, is situated at the back of Nevsky Prospect. The buildings around it also used to belong to the community of the church. By its sheer dimensions, you can judge about the size of the German Lutheran community of St. Petersburg before the revolution.
Petrikiche is huge, but now it gets full only during some concerts. It does not have as many parishioners as before and, in fact, there are much fewer of them than in Catholic and Armenian Churches of St. Catherine that we have just visited. And in the imperial epoch German Lutherans were one of the largest communities of the city. In 1912, Petrikirche had around 21000 parishioners, by the 1930-s, not long before it was shut down, this figure reduced to 4000, now it does not even reach a 1000.
Petrikirche
Official name - Lutheran Church of St. Peter and Paul
22-24 Nevsky Prospect
Petrikirche, just like the Armenian church, is situated at the back of Nevsky Prospect. The buildings around it also used to belong to the community of the church. By its sheer dimensions, you can judge about the size of the German Lutheran community of St. Petersburg before the revolution.
Petrikiche is huge, but now it gets full only during some concerts. It does not have as many parishioners as before and, in fact, there are much fewer of them than in Catholic and Armenian Churches of St. Catherine that we have just visited. And in the imperial epoch German Lutherans were one of the largest communities of the city. In 1912, Petrikirche had around 21000 parishioners, by the 1930-s, not long before it was shut down, this figure reduced to 4000, now it does not even reach a 1000.
The present building was constructed in the 1830-s on the site of the baroque Church of St. Peter and Paul of the first half of the 18th century, which quickly deteriorated because of weak soils in that area and, moreover, it could no longer accommodate the growing German community of the city.
Alexander Brullov designed it and his brother Karl Brullov, one of the first Russian artists who became known outside the country, painted the Crucifixion of Christ for the altar. Now you can find this piece of art in the Russian Museum nearby, just like other paintings by Brullov. In Petrikirche now you can see the smaller copy of the picture, that gets somehow lost in the spacious main hall of the church.
Alexander Brullov designed it and his brother Karl Brullov, one of the first Russian artists who became known outside the country, painted the Crucifixion of Christ for the altar. Now you can find this piece of art in the Russian Museum nearby, just like other paintings by Brullov. In Petrikirche now you can see the smaller copy of the picture, that gets somehow lost in the spacious main hall of the church.
Brullov Brothers came from the Lutheran family, their father, Paul Bruleau, the famous sculptor and carver on wood, was a descendant of French Huguenots and their mother was German.
In the 1890-s the church again fell into disrepair, because of the soil. The reconstruction was carried out according to the project of the famous St. Petersburg architect Maximilian von Messmacher, also a Lutheran. The walls were painted with decorative ornaments – you can now see some fragments of these paintings as you enter the church and near the canteen.
To the left and right of the entrance there are identical spiral staircases leading up to the towers. The access to the main hall of the church, as well its canteen, catacombs and restrooms is through the left wing. There you will see the church employee, who is also selling some souvenirs, tickets for concerts and tours to catacombs and towers of Petrikirche. These tours are in Russian, let us know if you want us to arrange the tours in other languages for you.
To the left and right of the entrance there are identical spiral staircases leading up to the towers. The access to the main hall of the church, as well its canteen, catacombs and restrooms is through the left wing. There you will see the church employee, who is also selling some souvenirs, tickets for concerts and tours to catacombs and towers of Petrikirche. These tours are in Russian, let us know if you want us to arrange the tours in other languages for you.
The church canteen is really nice, you can have some snacks, tea and coffee there at reasonable rates. The toilets nearby are also open for everyone.
On the walls of that wing you will see the portraits of church's pastors and read about the history of the church. From there you will find out that the church was closed in 1937, its pastor and his son were shot down. After the World War Two Petrikirche was rebuilt into the swimming pool. By that time its stained glass windows were moved to the Hermitage's storerooms, and the painting by Brullov – to the Russian Museum, other valuable items were looted.
Read more about the Hermitage highlights in our series of posts about the Hermitage
A pool bowl was mounted in the centre of the church hall, the choirs were rebuilt into stands. In 1992, after the collapse of the USSR, the pool was closed and the building was returned to the German Lutheran community, that spent a lot of money on the restoration of the church. But much of what had been lost was not returned - and the church still resembles a sports facility.
On the walls of that wing you will see the portraits of church's pastors and read about the history of the church. From there you will find out that the church was closed in 1937, its pastor and his son were shot down. After the World War Two Petrikirche was rebuilt into the swimming pool. By that time its stained glass windows were moved to the Hermitage's storerooms, and the painting by Brullov – to the Russian Museum, other valuable items were looted.
Read more about the Hermitage highlights in our series of posts about the Hermitage
A pool bowl was mounted in the centre of the church hall, the choirs were rebuilt into stands. In 1992, after the collapse of the USSR, the pool was closed and the building was returned to the German Lutheran community, that spent a lot of money on the restoration of the church. But much of what had been lost was not returned - and the church still resembles a sports facility.
During the Soviet era, many churches were converted into swimming pools and gyms. The least fortunate was the grandiose Cathedral of Christ the Saviour in Moscow, which, being an important dominant of the city, was demolished to the ground and a heated pool was built on its foundation - it was possible to swim in it and look at the Kremlin towers all year round.
The cathedral was built anew and opened in 2000, but it hardly resembles its predecessor.
The cathedral was built anew and opened in 2000, but it hardly resembles its predecessor.
Paintings in Catacombs. Photo from Wikipedia
During the tour of Petrikirche catacombs you will see the basement of the former swimming pool and granite pylons that stand on the level of the old church hall. The catacombs are covered with paintings that illustrate the fate of many Russian Germans in the height of Stalin's repressions in the 1930-s – night arrests, deportations to Vorkuta camps and hard labour there.
When you get to such places, you understand that a significant part of our country's population went through these labour camps and not all of them survived. And many people were shot, for nothing. It is important to remember about these terrible events, and in some churches of St. Petersburg there are memorial plaques with the names of their repressed parishioners and similar paintings – for instance, in Annenkirche.
There might also be some interesting temporary exhibitions in the catacombs and other premises of the church – most of them are usually devoted to the history of the German settlers in Russia.
In 2017 the church received a new organ instead of the old one, that was lost in 1939.
The present organ was bought with money from contributors from Germany. Now you can hear it in many concerts that take part in Petrikirche.
Services in German and Russian are regularly held in Petrikirche. A pastor leads each service in two languages, one after another.
Petrikirche has a Russian-German Centre with German language courses and various programmes for youngsters. It is now located at Nevsky, 22.
During the tour of Petrikirche catacombs you will see the basement of the former swimming pool and granite pylons that stand on the level of the old church hall. The catacombs are covered with paintings that illustrate the fate of many Russian Germans in the height of Stalin's repressions in the 1930-s – night arrests, deportations to Vorkuta camps and hard labour there.
When you get to such places, you understand that a significant part of our country's population went through these labour camps and not all of them survived. And many people were shot, for nothing. It is important to remember about these terrible events, and in some churches of St. Petersburg there are memorial plaques with the names of their repressed parishioners and similar paintings – for instance, in Annenkirche.
There might also be some interesting temporary exhibitions in the catacombs and other premises of the church – most of them are usually devoted to the history of the German settlers in Russia.
In 2017 the church received a new organ instead of the old one, that was lost in 1939.
The present organ was bought with money from contributors from Germany. Now you can hear it in many concerts that take part in Petrikirche.
Services in German and Russian are regularly held in Petrikirche. A pastor leads each service in two languages, one after another.
Petrikirche has a Russian-German Centre with German language courses and various programmes for youngsters. It is now located at Nevsky, 22.
Petrishule. Photo from Yavarda
Behind the church you will see the beautiful building with baroque facade – this is Petrishule, one of the oldest schools of the city. It was the main school of the German community. Empress Catherine II, who was also German, donated large sums of money on maintenance of Petrishule and Petrikirche.
The building of Petrishule was constructed in 1760 and later several extra floors were added to it. In Soviet times, the school lost its name and became just a secondary school. In 1996, it regained its historical name. Now it is a prestigious school with in-depth study of German. They even have a museum, which anyone can visit by appointment.
Behind the church you will see the beautiful building with baroque facade – this is Petrishule, one of the oldest schools of the city. It was the main school of the German community. Empress Catherine II, who was also German, donated large sums of money on maintenance of Petrishule and Petrikirche.
The building of Petrishule was constructed in 1760 and later several extra floors were added to it. In Soviet times, the school lost its name and became just a secondary school. In 1996, it regained its historical name. Now it is a prestigious school with in-depth study of German. They even have a museum, which anyone can visit by appointment.
Carlo Rossi, an architect who created the major architectural ensembles of central St. Petersburg, studied in Petrishule.
The courtyards around Petrikirche and Petrishule are open – if you turn left, you will come to Bolshaya Konyushennaya Street, that we will visit in the end of our tour. If you go right, you will get to the pedestrian street Malaya Konyushennaya, where you will find our next stop!
Stop 4
Swedish Lutheran Church of St. Catherine
Sankta Katarina kyrka
1 Malaya Konyushennaya Street
This small church with the big history was built in the 1860-s to the design by Carl Andersson. When you see the mighty carved columns at the entrance of the church and inside and its neo-Romanesque features, it seems that it was constructed much later, because these details can be found in many Northern Romantic buildings.
The first building of the church dates back to the reign of Catherine the Great and, as you might guess, it was named in honour of St. Catherine. Therefore, the current church also bears the name of this saint.
Swedish Lutheran Church of St. Catherine
Sankta Katarina kyrka
1 Malaya Konyushennaya Street
This small church with the big history was built in the 1860-s to the design by Carl Andersson. When you see the mighty carved columns at the entrance of the church and inside and its neo-Romanesque features, it seems that it was constructed much later, because these details can be found in many Northern Romantic buildings.
The first building of the church dates back to the reign of Catherine the Great and, as you might guess, it was named in honour of St. Catherine. Therefore, the current church also bears the name of this saint.
Press the door bell to enter this church.
The house to the right from the church that also faces Shvedsky Pereulok (literally Swedish lane) belongs to the Swedish consulate. It was also designed by C. Andersson.
Before the revolution the church has witnessed many historical events. Among its parishioners were the Nobel Family and famous St. Petersburg architect Fyodor Lidval. In this church, Gustav Mannerheim, the commander of the Russian imperial army and later the president of Finland, married his first wife.
Before the revolution the church has witnessed many historical events. Among its parishioners were the Nobel Family and famous St. Petersburg architect Fyodor Lidval. In this church, Gustav Mannerheim, the commander of the Russian imperial army and later the president of Finland, married his first wife.
F. Lidval is probably the most renowned architect of the Northern Romantic Movement in our city – his elegant style is seen from a far.
Along our route you can see several his buildings – The Apartment House of Swedish Church (3 Malaya Konyushennaya), Apartment House of Meltzer across the street from our next stop (19 Bolshaya Konyushennaya) and Former Headquarters of Nobel Brothers (6 Griboedova Channel).
Along our route you can see several his buildings – The Apartment House of Swedish Church (3 Malaya Konyushennaya), Apartment House of Meltzer across the street from our next stop (19 Bolshaya Konyushennaya) and Former Headquarters of Nobel Brothers (6 Griboedova Channel).
In the 1930-s the church was closed and rebuilt inside. The church hall was divided into several floors and it was turned into the gym for adolescents. The parish became functioning again in 1993, but the church still has this division into floors and you can't appreciate its former beauty.
It is the least active church on our route with only occasional services in Swedish and English, as well as special meetings of various Christian societies. The church is also used by musicians for the rehearsals.
It is the least active church on our route with only occasional services in Swedish and English, as well as special meetings of various Christian societies. The church is also used by musicians for the rehearsals.
Once you get inside, take a look at those formidable columns – they certainly bear Nordic signature style! Along the left staircase, you will find the photos of beautiful Lutheran churches of St. Petersburg and its surroundings – most of them were severely damaged during World War II and deteriorated with time, only a few have been totally reconstructed.
And now follow the Shvedsky Lane to the left of the church and turn left on Bolshaya Konyushennaya Street – you will see our next stop!
And now follow the Shvedsky Lane to the left of the church and turn left on Bolshaya Konyushennaya Street – you will see our next stop!
Photo Wikipedia
Stop 5
Finnish Lutheran Church of St. Mary
Pyhän Marian kirkko
8A Bolshaya Konyushennnaya Street
The present building appeared on the place of the old wooden church of St. Anna in 1803. It was designed by Gotlib Paulsen in the classical style and later modified a little by K. Anderson and L. Benois.
It was consecrated in honour of Emperor Alexander I's mother and wife of Paul I, Empress Mary, and became the main church of the Finnish population of St. Petersburg Region.
In the imperial times the surroundings of St. Petersburg were mostly inhabited by various related Finno-Ugric groups and many of them professed the Lutheran Branch of Christianity. The parish of this church before the revolution consisted mostly of them and reached 20,000 people by mid 19th century. The church was too small for such a big number of parishioners and there were plans to rebuild it, but they were not implemented before the revolution.
Stop 5
Finnish Lutheran Church of St. Mary
Pyhän Marian kirkko
8A Bolshaya Konyushennnaya Street
The present building appeared on the place of the old wooden church of St. Anna in 1803. It was designed by Gotlib Paulsen in the classical style and later modified a little by K. Anderson and L. Benois.
It was consecrated in honour of Emperor Alexander I's mother and wife of Paul I, Empress Mary, and became the main church of the Finnish population of St. Petersburg Region.
In the imperial times the surroundings of St. Petersburg were mostly inhabited by various related Finno-Ugric groups and many of them professed the Lutheran Branch of Christianity. The parish of this church before the revolution consisted mostly of them and reached 20,000 people by mid 19th century. The church was too small for such a big number of parishioners and there were plans to rebuild it, but they were not implemented before the revolution.
The villages and towns that surrounded St. Petersburg were mostly inhabited by Ingrian Finns, Izhorians and other closely related Finno-Ugrian groups up to the 1930-s and 1940-s, when Stalin repressions touched upon them and they were exiled to northern Siberia.
Ingrian Finns originate from the territory of the present-day Finland – from there they were relocated by Swedes in the 17th century to populate the lands around St. Petersburg more densely. Ingrian Finns are Lutherans.
On the other hand, Izhorians and other groups lived there since time immemorial and they, under the influence of the Novgorodians, professed Orthodox Christianity.
During the World War Two most villages to the south of St. Petersburg were wiped off the face of the Earth during bloody battles, half of those villages have not been rebuilt after the war. Ingrians and Izhorians from these villages were partly evacuated with the Finnish army to Finland. Those who stayed, suffered huge losses, just like the Russian-speaking population of those villages.
After the war, most Ingrian and Izhorian families who returned from Finland to the Soviet Union were sent to central Russia and only in the 1950-s, after the death of Stalin, some of them could come back to their lands. Nevertheless, the descendants of these ethnical groups still constitute an important part of the population of St. Petersburg and its surroundings.
Ingrian Finns originate from the territory of the present-day Finland – from there they were relocated by Swedes in the 17th century to populate the lands around St. Petersburg more densely. Ingrian Finns are Lutherans.
On the other hand, Izhorians and other groups lived there since time immemorial and they, under the influence of the Novgorodians, professed Orthodox Christianity.
During the World War Two most villages to the south of St. Petersburg were wiped off the face of the Earth during bloody battles, half of those villages have not been rebuilt after the war. Ingrians and Izhorians from these villages were partly evacuated with the Finnish army to Finland. Those who stayed, suffered huge losses, just like the Russian-speaking population of those villages.
After the war, most Ingrian and Izhorian families who returned from Finland to the Soviet Union were sent to central Russia and only in the 1950-s, after the death of Stalin, some of them could come back to their lands. Nevertheless, the descendants of these ethnical groups still constitute an important part of the population of St. Petersburg and its surroundings.
During the Soviet time the Church of St. Mary was used as the residence hall and the House of Nature. In the 1990-s it was returned to the worshippers and restored on the money of Finnish Lutherans.
The church was consecrated again in 2002 in the presence of the mayor of St. Petersburg at that time, Vladimir Yakovlev, who also has Ingrian roots, and Finnish president Tarja Halonen.
The church was consecrated again in 2002 in the presence of the mayor of St. Petersburg at that time, Vladimir Yakovlev, who also has Ingrian roots, and Finnish president Tarja Halonen.
In 2010 the church received a new organ, that you can often hear now during the concerts and services, that are held regularly in Russian and Finnish. Now the church of St. Mary probably looks the most cozy from all the churches on our route. Inside you can see various exhibitions and buy some traditional Ingrian souvenirs and knitwear, created by the parishioners, at a symbolic fee. The church has its own choir, Sunday school for children and lovely children corner.
The House of Finland and Institute of Finland with a nice thematic library are situated in the nearby building. In the church courtyard you will find the entrance to the Canteen of the House of Finland – it works until 5pm and it is open to everyone. This is a wonderful place for a tasty lunch or a cup of tea or coffee with a dessert at very reasonable rates.
The House of Finland and Institute of Finland with a nice thematic library are situated in the nearby building. In the church courtyard you will find the entrance to the Canteen of the House of Finland – it works until 5pm and it is open to everyone. This is a wonderful place for a tasty lunch or a cup of tea or coffee with a dessert at very reasonable rates.
Photo source Temples Piter
Stop 6
Famous Pyshki of St. Petersburg in the French Reformed Church
25 Bolshaya Konyushennaya Street
Most St. Petersburgers and visitors of the city know this address, because the famous Pyshecnhaya – a place where pyshki – healthier sisters of donuts – are served has been working there since the Soviet times. In the season, there is always a line of people on the street waiting for their turn to enter Pyshechnaya. However very few passers-by and tourists notice the evident church architecture of the building and the modest sign in Russian that says that it used to be French Reformed Church of St. Paul.
As you can see, this building was not given back to the French protestants after the collapse of the communism, as it was hardly possible to find any of their descendants.
Initially designed as French-German Reformed Church by Yury Felten in the 1770-s, it was rebuilt in 1839 as French Reformed Church by Harald von Bosse. Among its parishioners were both French and Germans.
If in the 18th and early 19th centuries French protestants were not unusual in St. Petersburg, but by the beginning of the 20th century they mingled with other ethnical groups of the city. By 1917 the church has less than 1000 parishioners and only half of them were French. Soon after the revolution it was closed and the building was given to Baptist Theological Courses. When they were forbidden, it became the House of Atheist Propaganda and later Chess Club.
Stop 6
Famous Pyshki of St. Petersburg in the French Reformed Church
25 Bolshaya Konyushennaya Street
Most St. Petersburgers and visitors of the city know this address, because the famous Pyshecnhaya – a place where pyshki – healthier sisters of donuts – are served has been working there since the Soviet times. In the season, there is always a line of people on the street waiting for their turn to enter Pyshechnaya. However very few passers-by and tourists notice the evident church architecture of the building and the modest sign in Russian that says that it used to be French Reformed Church of St. Paul.
As you can see, this building was not given back to the French protestants after the collapse of the communism, as it was hardly possible to find any of their descendants.
Initially designed as French-German Reformed Church by Yury Felten in the 1770-s, it was rebuilt in 1839 as French Reformed Church by Harald von Bosse. Among its parishioners were both French and Germans.
If in the 18th and early 19th centuries French protestants were not unusual in St. Petersburg, but by the beginning of the 20th century they mingled with other ethnical groups of the city. By 1917 the church has less than 1000 parishioners and only half of them were French. Soon after the revolution it was closed and the building was given to Baptist Theological Courses. When they were forbidden, it became the House of Atheist Propaganda and later Chess Club.
Pyshechnaya has been in this building for 50 years - during this time its assortment and the recipes of their two main specialities, pyshki and diluted Soviet coffee, have not changed.
Perhaps it will be a good place to end your walk or make a short break. But be careful, pyshki are so delicious that it is hard to resist eating a dozen of them at a time! While they are not a healthy snack option, they are much better than donuts, as they neither contain artificial flavours, colourings and preservatives nor loads of unnecessary fatty fillings.
Perhaps it will be a good place to end your walk or make a short break. But be careful, pyshki are so delicious that it is hard to resist eating a dozen of them at a time! While they are not a healthy snack option, they are much better than donuts, as they neither contain artificial flavours, colourings and preservatives nor loads of unnecessary fatty fillings.
Bonus Stop
Former Dutch Reformed Church
20 Nevsky/44 Moika River Embankment/31 Bolshaya Konuyshennaya Street
If you are not too tired yet and it will be on your way, you might take a look at the huge grey building of the library (for some reason many libraries in St. Petersburg are painted grey) on Nevsky Prospect with a cupola in the middle. It used to house the Dutch Reformed Church. Dutch were among the most active and largest communities of the newly founded city in the 18th century – Peter the Great loved them and invited them to explore new opportunities there.
The core of the present building is actually the oldest stone structure on Nevsky Prospect, that was later expanded and enlarged many times. Dutch community bought this house with adjusting land in 1719 – since then they had been gradually building it up for more than a century.
The building received the current look in the 1830-s thanks to architect Paul Jacot. At that time it housed the Dutch reformed church, club, bank, school, Dutch diplomatic mission and art shops. In this building lived the Dutch ambassador Baron Van Heeckeren with his adopted son Georges d'Anthès, who later killed Russian poet Alexander Pushkin in a duel.
Former Dutch Reformed Church
20 Nevsky/44 Moika River Embankment/31 Bolshaya Konuyshennaya Street
If you are not too tired yet and it will be on your way, you might take a look at the huge grey building of the library (for some reason many libraries in St. Petersburg are painted grey) on Nevsky Prospect with a cupola in the middle. It used to house the Dutch Reformed Church. Dutch were among the most active and largest communities of the newly founded city in the 18th century – Peter the Great loved them and invited them to explore new opportunities there.
The core of the present building is actually the oldest stone structure on Nevsky Prospect, that was later expanded and enlarged many times. Dutch community bought this house with adjusting land in 1719 – since then they had been gradually building it up for more than a century.
The building received the current look in the 1830-s thanks to architect Paul Jacot. At that time it housed the Dutch reformed church, club, bank, school, Dutch diplomatic mission and art shops. In this building lived the Dutch ambassador Baron Van Heeckeren with his adopted son Georges d'Anthès, who later killed Russian poet Alexander Pushkin in a duel.
The editorial offices of some prominent literary magazines and the Society for the Encouragement of Artists that organised first art exhibitions in the city were also located there. In this building the famous painting by Ilya Repin, Barge Haulers on the Volga River, was exhibited for the first time. Now you can see it in the main building of the Russian Museum.
Services in the Dutch Church were stopped in 1926 and the famous organ from the church was handed over to the St. Petersburg State Capella on the Moika River, where you can hear it today. So, it was more fortunate than the organs from other churches!
However, I can't say that the building of the church is fortunate – it had two big fires, in 1936 and 2004, and the later one I remember very well. After it the beautiful rotunda of the church was reconstructed and now you can see it during art exhibitions or tours.
In the Soviet era the building was given to various theatre companies and later to the library, that is still functioning.
Services in the Dutch Church were stopped in 1926 and the famous organ from the church was handed over to the St. Petersburg State Capella on the Moika River, where you can hear it today. So, it was more fortunate than the organs from other churches!
However, I can't say that the building of the church is fortunate – it had two big fires, in 1936 and 2004, and the later one I remember very well. After it the beautiful rotunda of the church was reconstructed and now you can see it during art exhibitions or tours.
In the Soviet era the building was given to various theatre companies and later to the library, that is still functioning.
Exhibition in the Rotonda of Dutch Church. Photo from Peterburg2
I would be pleased if my post inspires you to take this walk – all the sights on it are situated in the very touristic part of Nevsky Prospect and yet most guests of the city never visit them. You won't find crowds of tourists in these churches and you won't pay for the entrance, but you will feel the international spirit of those bygone epochs when many locals in St. Petersburg did not use Russian as their first language, but they felt themselves the part of the city's culture. That spirit disappeared during the communism, but our churches still remind you of it!
Have a look at our other walks for more ideas!
Contact us if you want us to help you organise special visits of these churches and talk to their representatives.
Text by Alexandra Carusel Tours
I would be pleased if my post inspires you to take this walk – all the sights on it are situated in the very touristic part of Nevsky Prospect and yet most guests of the city never visit them. You won't find crowds of tourists in these churches and you won't pay for the entrance, but you will feel the international spirit of those bygone epochs when many locals in St. Petersburg did not use Russian as their first language, but they felt themselves the part of the city's culture. That spirit disappeared during the communism, but our churches still remind you of it!
Have a look at our other walks for more ideas!
Contact us if you want us to help you organise special visits of these churches and talk to their representatives.
Text by Alexandra Carusel Tours