Carusel Tours
12 April 2021

Story of Carl Fabergé, the King of Jewellers and the Jeweller of Kings

coronation egg Fabergé
The name of Fabergé is synonymous with the word jeweller. It is known all over the world and for the last century it has been surrounded by numerous rumours and legends. His works are often at the epicentre of great scandals and mysteries. Experts constantly debate over their attribution and opine if they are real art or just a result of imperial whims and dubious tastes.

Everything that is related to his name always attracts a lot of public attention and treasure hunters and collectors are willing to pay a fortune to obtain some example of his art of the highest quality and mastery. They are the embodiment of beauty, grace and imperial luxury ...

I am speaking about the famous Russian jeweller Peter Carl Fabergé, also known as Karl Gustavovich Fabergé. Books, films and entire museums are dedicated to Fabergé and his heritage.

I am not an expert to debate about his art. Here I will tell you a little about the House of Fabergé and its creators, who left us much more than Imperial Easter Eggs. I will tell you the story about a triumph and the road to jewellery Mount Olympus.

The House of Fabergé is the only Russian jewellery so far that became a world-famous brand. And despite all the historical disturbances of the last 100 years the largest collections of Fabergé works now is located in Russia - in the Fabergé Museum and the Hermitage in St. Petersburg and the Armory of Moscow Kremlin.
When we write about Carl Fabergé, we are not referring to his works only. The House of Fabergé was a large company that united the most talented jewellers of that epoch under one name. In modern terms, we can say that Carl Fabergé created his own well recognisable style, but also, and that is very important, he was a gifted manager with the great ability to pick up talents.
Parents of Carl Fabergé
Parents of Carl Fabergé

How Did Fabergé Family Come to St. Petersburg?

The ancestors of Carl Fabergé from his father's side came from France, from the region of Picardy, as you can see by their surname. They were Huguenots who fled from religious persecution to Germany at the end of the 17th century. Then in 1800 they moved again, this time to Livonia or present-day Estonia, then part of the Russian Empire. There in the small town of Pärnu, the father of our protagonist, Gustav Fabergé, was born. He came to St. Petersburg in 1830 to study with Andreas Ferdinand Spiegel, the master of the golden boxes.

First shop of Fabergé
It is unclear where Gustav got the funds for the business. They could have been given by his father-in-law, Danish painter Karl Jungstedt. The House of Fabergé was established on the street with the most famous and expensive shops in the capital, so the grandiose ambitions of Gustav were evident from the very beginning.
Very quickly the House of Fabergé gained world fame – in 40 years after its foundation the members of the royal families "lined up" in front of its famous shop on Bolshaya Morskaya street and considered the purchase of the famous Fabergé's jewellery as an honour. Right at that time Russian Empress Maria Fedorovna called Carl Fabergé, the son of the company's founder, "the incomparable genius of our epoch".

Young Years of Carl Fabergé

Despite his Western-European roots, St. Petersburg-born Carl Fabergé considered himself the Russian artist, but like any great master he used and accumulated the achievements of the world art. Artistic curiosity, deep expertise and openness to different traditions allowed Fabergé to create his own unique style.

After graduating from St. Anna's Lutheran School (known as Annenshule) and acquiring initial skills in the family workshop, at the age of 14 Carl was sent by his father on a Grand European Tour to study art heritage. During this trip, Carl got acquainted with collections in Paris, Frankfurt, Dresden and Florence and met representatives of different jewellery schools.
Fabergé School in St. Petersburg - Annenshule
Annenshule on 8th Kirochnaya Street is one of the oldest schools in St. Petersburg. It was founded in 1736 for the children of the German population of the city.

In 1918, Annenschule became a common school with in-depth study of mathematics and physics. Currently it is one of the most prestigious schools in the city.

Among its graduates there are many well-known people: ethnologist Nicholai Miklukho-Maklai, physician Peter Lesgaft, poet and Nobel Prize winner Joseph Brodsky and chess grandmaster Victor Korchnoi.

Carl returned to Russia 4 years later to continue practicing in the family workshop. In 3 years, the works of the young master caught the attention of the courtiers of His Majesty Alexander III.

In 1872, when he was only 26 years old, Carl Fabergé, the jeweller by birth, manager by vocation, headed the family business and soon developed it to unattainable heights. As soon as it happened, his father Gustav left for Dresden.
Kelch Egg
Kelch Egg, made with the use of guilloché technique, now in the collection of the Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg

The Fame

Along with managing the House, young Fabergé worked at the Hermitage as the restorer and appraiser of the antique jewels, continuing his endless studies.

We don't know how he got this job at the palace, probably, thanks to his growing popularity, but we do know that he worked there for 15 long years and all this time for free! However, he had access to the imperial gallery of jewels and acquired invaluable experience. There he learned the secrets and techniques of his predecessors, including the ancient guilloché technique of gelled enamel over an engraved background.

This almost forgotten technique together with the deep knowledge of the styles and forms of the past, modified to fit the contemporary tastes of his time, became the hallmark of Fabergé.

His jewellers could create enamels in 144 subtle tones and with wide variety of engravings! They engraved in gold and silver with "moiré", "rays", "spikelet" or "waves", while most of their contemporaries decorated their jewellery using the limited amount of simple shades.

guilloché enamel Fabergé
The guilloché technique is named after the French engineer Guillot, who invented the special machine for engraving patterns on metal surfaces, but it has been known since the Middle Ages when craftsmen started engraving wavy lines arranged in a certain geometric sequence.

The guilloché etched surface covered with the different coloured enamels enhances the play of light in the jewel. The color of enamel depends on its chemical composition and calcination temperature. Once the glaze has hardened, the product is sanded and baked again to achieve perfect smoothness. Objects with a complex composition are calcined 10 to 100 times to achieve the desired perfection.

The Fabergé masters covered a wide variety of their works with this glaze - from the famous imperial eggs to the photo frames and precious trinkets such as inkwells, writing materials, servant bells, cigarette boxes, manicure cases, perfume bottles, handles for walking sticks, umbrellas. These highly varied pieces, made from materials of different value, made Fabergé really popular.

In Fabergé shop it was possible to buy expensive jewellery with precious stones, as well as simpler and more utilitarian things, still very elegant. Not the price, but the exceptional quality and craftsmanship were the most important features of Fabergé production. As Carl himself said in one of his interviews: "I am not a trader, I am not interested in an expensive thing if its price is solely based on the fact that it contains a lot of diamonds or pearls". He firmly believed that the value of the work should have exceeded the cost of the precious materials used.

The breakthrough happened in 1882, when the Fabergé House participated in the All-Russian Art and Industrial Exhibition. There, the jeweller presented the copies of the Treasures of Kerch, executed excellently. They caught the attention of the public and the royal family, headed by Emperor Alexander III. Carl Fabergé and his House were awarded the gold medal and received patronage from the royal family. The empress herself made her first purchase - a pair of cicada cufflinks.
Bracelet with lion heads - copy of the Treasures of Kerch made by the House of Fabergé. The Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg​
Bracelet with lion heads - copy of the Treasures of Kerch made by the House of Fabergé. The Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg
The Treasures of Kerch are decorative items and coins from the 4th century BC, found in the Crimea. They are exhibited in the Treasury of the Hermitage Museum.
Niva, a popular magazine of the 19th century, wrote: "Mr. Fabergé wanted to elevate jewellery to the height of art and thus turned to the source of classical beauty - to Greece and its heritage. His copies bring us the best of the Greek art".

Above all, in jewellery Carl Fabergé valued mastery and the sense of style. His works were distinguished by the highest quality of execution. They said that the master destroyed with his own hands any works that did not meet his strict standards of excellence.

From this exhibition, the new chapter in the history of the House of Fabergé began, impressive and glorious. For the next 35 years, empress Maria Fedorovna and her family have been Fabergé's most loyal and appreciative clients.
Hen Egg. Faberge Museum in St. Petersburg
Hen Egg. Faberge Museum in St. Petersburg

Fabergé Eggs

In 1885 Fabergé obtained the title of "Jeweller of His Imperial Majesty and Jeweller of the Imperial Hermitage." It happened after of the creation of the first imperial gift - the Easter Egg. And as history has shown us, this set of imperial gifts was the most ambitious and significant project of the jeweller, that made his name immortal.

The Hen, the first Easter egg, is now in the Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg, currently the largest collection of the works of the House of Fabergé.

Read our post about the collection of the Fabergé Museum in Culture Tourist Blog

It was ordered by Alexander III who wanted to please his wife with something very special. It might be that the emperor himself offered the Danish egg as the idea for the gift and if so, we can call him the co-author of the work. There was a resembling antique 18th century egg in the Danish royal house where Empress Maria Fedorovna came from.

Using that idea, Carl Fabergé and his jewellers created an original gift, gorgeous and modest at the same time. It reminded the empress about childhood and homeland and she with her entire family loved it so much that thus began the imperial collection of precious Easter eggs with surprise.

The Hen Egg is covered on the outside with a white enamel that imitates a shell, and on the inside it has a matt gold "yolk" that also contains the figure of a golden hen.

Inside the hen there used to be hidden a small copy of the imperial crown, currently lost.

The Hen was elaborated with exceptional skill, but the idea of Easter gifts in the shape of an egg was not new to Russia. It existed since the 18th century at least. In the royal treasury there are Easter eggs, made of porcelain, exotic mother-of-pearl shells and ostrich eggs.

Not rich people exchanged the eggs made of wood, paper mache, chocolate, porcelain and silver. With these eggs, they also decorated houses, hanging them under the icons during holidays.

It took a year to create each imperial egg and if the first sketches were personally approved by the emperor, the following, according to the family legend, were completely dependent on Carl Fabergé from the idea to the choice of materials. The only requirement was the presence of some kind of surprise and the shape of the egg, which remained intact. Most often, the annual surprise was associated with some important event in the life of the royal family: coronation, birth of an heir, anniversaries.

From the creation of the Hen Egg until 1916, when the last egg was made, the House of Fabergé elaborated 54 precious works for the Romanov royal family. First, it was only one egg each year and from 1895 they began to produce two imperial Easter gifts, one for the mother empress and one for the young empress, the wife of the new emperor Nicholas II.
The first pair was:

Blue Serpent Egg-Clock for the empress-mother, currently in the collection of the Princes of Monaco. The colour and style of this egg made of gold and enamel echoed the style of Sevres porcelain.

The Rosebud Egg for Nicholas' wife Alexandra Fedorovna, made of gold, enamel, rubies and diamonds in the neoclassical style. It is now in the collection of the Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg. As the secret, it had a yellow rose bud, the emblem flower of the young empress's homeland. This bud bore a crown with a necklace, currently lost.

Only in 1905-1906, during the Russian-Japanese war, this tradition was interrupted and there were no Easter gifts.

The last two imperial Easter eggs were ordered for the year 1917. These were very original and simple eggs, made with the use of rare materials - Karelian birch and coloured glass. This was typical of all eggs since the World War One. The Birch Egg and crystal Constellation Egg were considered lost until 2001, now they belong to the Fabergé Museum in Badén Badén, but according to the opinion of many experts the origins of these eggs are questionable.
St. George Egg
The last undoubted Easter Egg is that of St. George or Georgievskoye, presented to Maria Fedorovna and dedicated to the highest military order of the Russian empire.

This enamelled egg is decorated with a ribbon of St. George and crosses with miniature portraits of Nicholas II and his son, Prince Alexei. This is the only egg that Maria Fedorovna was able to bring from Russia in 1919. It is now in the collection of the Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg.

Today we know of 48 imperial eggs, the others have been considered lost after the Russian revolution, we have their descriptions. As you already might know, these disappearances and re-discoveries of Fabergé Eggs are the reason for endless sensations and disputes.
Rothschild Egg. The Hermitage Museum Collection
Rothschild Egg. The Hermitage Museum Collection

Apart from imperial eggs, Fabergé jewellers produced Easter eggs for the nobility and rich people such as the families of the Yusupov, Nobel, Kelch. Some of them you will see in the Fabergé Museum. We will also mention the Rothschild Egg from the Hermitage collection in St. Petersburg. It is currently the most expensive Fabergé egg. It was sold by the Rothschild family at Christie's in 2007 and bought by Russian businessman Alexander Ivanov. In 2014, it was presented to the Hermitage Museum by president V. Putin.

The surprise of this egg with a clock, made of gold and enamel and decorated with diamonds and pearls, is a golden mechanical rooster with diamonds. Every new hour, the lid of the egg tilts back and a rooster appears, it flaps its wings, opens its beak and sings. The surprises with roosters were very popular, but not unique, among other surprises boats, flowers, architectural monuments, trains, floats and other little things ...

Read more about the Hermitage masterpieces in our series of posts about this museum.
Egg pendants by Fabergé. Hermitage Museum Collection
Egg pendants by Fabergé. Hermitage Museum Collection
The House of Fabergé also produced affordable jewellery, satisfying the tastes of customers of different incomes. For example, together with expensive Easter eggs they were selling small inexpensive pendants in the shape of enamelled eggs. People with lower income could buy them as presents.

Such eggs were very popular with young girls, who collected them by putting on the necklaces. It seems that the House of Fabergé created the first charms, that are very popular today! That is, for example, what the firm Pandora does now and makes a lot of money out of it. Well, there is nothing new under the sun!

The House of Fabergé – Production of Masterpieces

You may think that it is the precious eggs that have made the name of Fabergé immortal and world-renowned, but it is not completely true. Great success came to Carl Fabergé 15 years after the creation of the first imperial egg, it happened at the 1900 Paris Expo, where the Russian jeweller was invited as a member of the jury, along with René Lalique and Frederic Boucheron.

With the support and personal consent of Nicholas II and his wife, Fabergé presented his works there, including some Easter eggs and miniature copies of the imperial crown and the insignia of the Russian Empire.
the miniatures of the crown and insignia of the Russian Empire by Fabergé
Now you can see the miniatures of the crown and insignia of the Russian Empire in the General Staff Building of the Hermitage Museum.
Even though at that time the Parisians were in favour of the new Art Nouveau style and the "traditional" works by Fabergé seemed to be out of fashion, their incredible execution could not go unnoticed. The triumph of the House of Fabergé in Paris exhibition lasted for years. Carl Fabergé, his 2 children, and another prominent jeweller of the House, Mikhail Perkhin, were awarded the Legion of Honour, France's main award.

Other famous European jewellery houses came under the influence of the Fabergé style, and the House of Fabergé became a supplier to the royal courts of Europe and Asia. They were the court suppliers of the Russian emperor, the king of Sweden and Norway, the king of the United Kingdom, the court jeweller and enameller of the king of Siam.
miniature animal figures and flowers carved from precious and semi-precious stones by Fabergé
And if the Romanov family "collected" eggs, the English royal family made a rich collection of miniature animal figures and flowers carved from precious and semi-precious stones from Ural and Siberia. King Edward VII of England commissioned series with his favourite animals and birds from the royal farm at Sandringham. The images were carved in Russia from models made in England from nature.

The House of Fabergé produced the majority of their stone carved figures in the 1900s after the opening of their own stone cutting workshop. These works immediately became the objects of attention and recognition of all connoisseurs of decorative art.

The figures were inspired by Japanese art that was very fashionable during the Art Nouveau epoch. The stone flowers are a reflection of "ikebana" and ideas of oriental art, in animal figures we can also mention the influence of the art of netsuke.

These works once again point out at Fabergé's curiosity, openness and great flexibility to different currents and styles.
House of Fabergé on Bolshaya Morskaya Street, 24

In 1898 Carl Fabergé bought a building on Bolshaya Morskaya Street to place his new, much larger house there, that would also accommodate his constantly growing business. The existent house was rebuilt and enlarged by architect K. Schmidt, the jeweller's cousin. The reconstruction was completed in 1900, the new building had everything: the family's own house, shop, artists' studios, workshops and depository.
Among other technical innovations, the new house had a safe connected to electricity that rose like an elevator to the second floor. This safe was very secure for that time. After the February Revolution of 1917, many customers entrusted their treasures to Fabergé and kept them in this safe.

The Chekists could not open the "elevator". They succeeded in May 1919, only by getting to know the secret code. Among other works they found there last imperial eggs – Birch Egg and Constellation.

In this building the headquarters of the House of Fabergé were situated. By the beginning of the 20th century, Fabergé shops were already functioning in Moscow (1887), Odessa (1890) and Kiev (1905).

In 1903, Fabergé store in London was opened. It was headed by Nicholas, the youngest son of Carl. Carl Fabergé had 4 children, all of them were jewellers and participated in the family business.
Fabergé Workshop. Old photo
Fabergé Workshop

Working Ethics of Carl Fabergé. Prominent Jewellers of the House of Fabergé

Of course, such a large jewellery house was much more than the family business. We do not know what works Carl himself did, but we do not doubt his exceptional manager skills and perfect sense of style and flair for talents. During its rather short history, in the House of Fabergé more than 200,000 jewellery pieces were created. Among Fabergé's jewellers were the most talented artists who knew all the techniques of that time.

The House of Fabergé produced treasures and united talents. At the beginning of the 20th century, up to 600 masters worked there and all were the best craftsmen of their time - jewellers, enamellers, miniaturists and stonecutters. They considered their collaboration with the House as an honour.

The word "collaboration" is the most appropriate for this type of work - Fabergé invited different jewellers to cooperate and many of them also had their own workshops and stamps, which they put together with the Fabergé stamp. Carl Fabergé never "benefited" from other people's talents, the names of his jewellers are also well-known.

Mikhail Perkhin - one of the most brilliant jewelers of the time. He was born into a peasant family in Karelia. He came to St. Petersburg to study and soon he became the head jeweler of the Fabergé House. Perkhin created 28 magnificent imperial eggs and many other jewellery masterpieces. Among his works are such imperial eggs as Blue Enamel Serpentine Egg, Lilies of the Valley, Coronation Egg, Trans-Siberian Train, apart from that he created all eggs for the Kelch family, Rothschild Egg and Duchess of Marlborough Egg.

Mikhail Perkhin's workshop had 50 jewellers, they made works of art for the House of Fabergé along with their own works. Since 1891, Mikhail Perkhin obtained the title of merchant of the II guild and honorary citizen of St. Petersburg.
Alma Pihl - the first and only female jeweller in the House of Fabergé.

Alma was born in Moscow and she came from a family of Swedish jewellers, who spoke Russian among themselves, but kept the Lutheran faith. She was a designer of gold, silver and gemstone jewellery, such as the pendants for the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty and memorable gifts for the Nobel family. She is best-known as the creator of the frost on glass effect and Winter Easter Egg that is now part of the collection of the Emir of Qatar.

Read about the history of Nobels in Russia

In 1917, she emigrated to Finland where she worked as the art teacher at school, not telling anyone about her past in Russia.

Apart from that, Fabergé invited famous architects, sculptors and painters when he was working on some of his greatest pieces. For example, he cooperated with architect L. Benois and painter G. Savitsky. All the activities of the House of Fabergé were directed to fulfil the main idea - create original jewellery of the highest quality.
Military Items from Fabergé
Military Items from Fabergé

Along with jewellery the House of Fabergé produced simple things, especially during the First World War - it was not a time for luxury, and there was a lack of precious metals. Fabergé began to produce necessary and cheap items for military made of copper, such as tableware, teapots, samovars, boxes for cigarettes and products for the front and hospitals: medical instruments and even pomegranates. Now you can see some of these objects in the collections of the Fabergé Museum and the Hermitage General Staff Building in St. Petersburg.

It was the beginning of the end of the empire created by Fabergé, as well as his entire world, but at that moment he did not understand it ...
Carl Fabergé at work
Carl Fabergé at work

Fall of the Empire of Fabergé

In November 1918, after the victory of the new revolutionary powers, the House of Fabergé was closed and all its property was nationalized. Carl Fabergé, disguised as the courier of the Swiss embassy, fled the country with almost nothing and could never restore his business again.

The House of Fabergé ceased to exist, just like the entire Russian Empire and the noble and luxurious life to which it belonged. "I don't see the sense in living like this," the old jeweller often repeated, spending his last years in Germany and Switzerland. Carl Fabergé died in Lausanne on September 24, 1921.

Most of the nationalized works of the House of Fabergé were sold between 1920-1930 by the Soviet government through the Torgsin chain of stores and on the illicit market.

Read our post about Mikhail Bulgakov and his novel Master and Margarita to learn more about that epoch and Torgsin shops.

Very few Fabergé works were taken out of Russia by the Fabergé family, and the clients.

Dirty sales of the new Soviet government and the commercial failure of the Fabergé sons in Europe initiated endless legends, particularly about Fabergé treasures and the imperial eggs.

Sons of Carl Fabergé: Agathon, Eugeny and Alexander

In the early post-revolutionary years, the Fabergé brothers stayed in Russia. Agathon worked first as the appraiser for the state fund established for the control of valuable items, but soon he fled to Finland with his family. Alexander and Eugeny also managed to leave the country and opened the Fabergé & Cie House in Paris, but they were unsuccessful and lost their copyright.

It is the separate story and it has little in common with the protagonist of this post and the jewellery. The main problem was that Carl Fabergé never registered his business as the trademark.

After the Russian revolution in Europe and America a lot of forgeries, the so-called "Falsberge" were sold. American billionaire Armand Hammer was among those who initiated the production of such fakes when he bought a large number of Fabergé works and the other masterpieces from main Russian museums, including the Hermitage.

In 1931 Fabergé Inc appeared, it was selling perfumes. The Fabergé brothers lost the court case and their family brand, receiving only $ 25,000 in compensation. Since then Fabergé Inc can produce everything it wants under this brand, even household chemistry.

Items from the collection of the Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg

Despite the sad history of the House of Fabergé after 1918, some of its works remained in Russia and others have returned to their homeland in recent years!

The creation of the Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg, founded by the famous Russian businessman Victor Vekselberg, and opened in the Shuvalov Palace in 2011 was an outstanding event.

V. Vekselberg bought 9 imperial eggs, known as the Forbes Collection, and thus saved them from division during the auction. The museum, founded by him, is dedicated to Fabergé and the development of 20th century Russian jewellery.

Today, the museum's collection contains more than 4,000 items created by the House of Fabergé and its contemporaries.
You can visit this museum on your own or during our Fabergé Tour.

The unique collection of the Fabergé Museum is definitely worth seeing, as well as the other works of the House of Fabergé in the Armoury of the Moscow Kremlin (that contains 10 Imperial Eggs) and the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg.

No words are enough to describe the beauty of Fabergé's works, their virtuous mastery and brilliance of precious stones… But what emotions you will feel when you see them with your eyes for the first time!

I hope that you will like this post and that it would induce you to discover more about the heritage of the great Russian jeweller. I wish with all my heart that we will soon be able to continue these discoveries together on your next trip to Russia.

During our Fabergé Tour, we will see the Fabergé Museum, the places, related to the jeweller and his exceptional clients, and we will tell you many stories that have been left out of this post.

If want to know more about the subject, as well as the jewellers and members of the House of Fabergé, do not hesitate to contact me, I will tell you everything that I can.

Text by Karina Carusel Tours
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