Carusel Tours
10 June 2020

Veliky Novgorod.
Cradle of Russian State, Medieval Democracy and Argentinian Cats

Veliky Novgorod Cathedral of St. Sophia
Novgorod the Great or Veliky Novgorod is one of the oldest cities in the present-day Russia. Although now it is very modest in size, all the citizens of the country know about this city located on the banks of the Volkhov River, they value it and since time immemorial they call it the Great or even "Gospodin Veliki Novgorod" which means "The Lord Novgorod the Great". And it's not just because of its age, but also due to its historical significance.

When in 1862 the Russian Empire commemorated the millennium of the foundation of the state, they were choosing between Veliky Novgorod, Kiev and Moscow where to celebrate this great jubilee and install the monument dedicated to it. Veliky Novgorod won this competition and again became the center of political and cultural life of the state as centuries ago.

The history of the city is inextricably linked to all the most important stages of the country's development. Today we will tell you about its brightest period and the fascinating medieval monuments of Veliky Novgorod.

We hope that it will encourage you to visit Veliky Novgorod during your next trip to Russia and get closer to our roots. As the city is located in just 190 km from St. Petersburg, it is easy to make it a day trip or, better, spend few relaxing days there.
Kremlin Veliky Novgorod
According to ancient chronicles, the fascinating history of the Russian state began in 862 when the heads of Slavic tribes called on the legendary Varangian Riurik to rule the various peoples of the region, make order and law. Thus, the first Russian royal dynasty, Ruriks, and the city Novgorod the Great were founded. During the medieval era Novgorod was among the most important cities in Eastern Europe, and the only principality that escaped Mongol rule after their invasion to Russia between the 13th-15th centuries.
Some History

In the 12th-15th centuries the mighty Principality of Veliky Novgorod occupied a vast territory between the Baltic Sea and the Ural Mountains.

Novgorod, as the first city of Rus´ (the former name of present-day Russia) had always played a fundamental role in the history of the young state, even when its capital was transferred to Kiev for defensive reasons. Until today this land keeps the relics of the ancient times and pre-Christian beliefs that formed the part of our history, now almost forgotten.

Throughout the centuries Novgorod played an important role in the political and economic life of Rus´.

The princes of Kiev and Yaroslavl guaranteed certain freedoms and privileges to the citizens of Veliky Novgorod, and this was how the Novgorod Republic was founded.
Novgorod the Great
While being the part of the Kievan Rus', Novgorod turned into a powerful and largely independent regional centre, with the government having more links with the population than in the rest of the state.

During the 11th-12th centuries Novgorod the Great had to pay a tribute to Kiev and equip the troops for its military campaigns. So, Novgorod fought for the independence and obtained it in 1136. Over the centuries, the citizens of Veliky Novgorod were able to choose their governors among the boyars, the Russian nobility, and the local officials. They could even invite and princes to rule the republic and dismiss them!
The exact structure of the Republic of Novgorod is now uncertain, but we know of a network of veches (public assemblies), a local government of posádniks (mayors) and other smaller electoral institutions. It appears that the veche contained the elected members from the urban and rural population.

They also had the Archbishop of Novgorod, the local head of the Christian church and the city at the same time, along with the Knyaz (the prince) of Novgorod. Most of the important knyaz's decisions had to be approved by the posadniks and veche.
Veliky Novgorod
The vast and rich territories of the Novgorod Republic and the multiple trade routes that passed through it brought it the power and great economic importance. This wealth allowed it to buy its autonomy from the Mongols, paying them the tribute during the invasion of the Golden Horde.

The independence of the Republic of Novgorod that existed for more than six centuries, ended with the invasion of the army of Ivan III, the unifier of various Russian principalities, after a bloody war. He eliminated the veche, the symbol of Novgorod's independence, and integrated the republic with the principality of Moscow in 1478.

During the centuries of autonomy Novgorod the Great reached the peak of its development and enriched the united Russia immensely. Veliky Novgorod was one of the greatest artistic centres of medieval Europe and it played a crucial role in our culture.

This is where the birch bark manuscripts come from - invaluable testimonies of the ancient Russian language of the XI-XV centuries. The birch bark letters were found by archaeologists in 1951 during the excavations in Novgorod. So far 1050 rolls with birch bark manuscripts have been excavated there.
 birch bark manuscripts Veliky Novgorod
This letter was written by a woman between 1160-1180 and it says "From Gostiata to Vasil. What my father gave me and the relatives also gave me, he has. And now, marrying a new wife, he does not give me anything. He closed a deal, drove me away and took the other as his wife. Come here, please".

In general, the letters are brief and most are private messages, but there are also official and legal documents. Among the most interesting letters are writing and drawing exercises by children aged 6-7 years, jokes and folk tales. In addition to the archaeological significance, these letters show us a very high level of literacy in Novgorod of the Middle Ages.

Archangel Gabriel (Angel of the Golden Hair), 12th century. Currently in the Russian Museum in St. Petersburg
Archangel Gabriel (Angel of the Golden Hair), 12th century. Currently in the Russian Museum in St. Petersburg

The architectural traditions of Novgorod the Great, its icons and fresco paintings were famous across Europe. Its medieval artists, mostly anonymous, created a very special artistic style. These works of art are now part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

You can find some icons and old wooden sculptures from Novgorod the Great in the Russian Museum of St. Petersburg. We recommend you to visit this museum with our tour to better discover the Russian history.

In some parts of the city the cultural layer reaches 9 meters and the entire wooden rooms of the 10th and 15th centuries are preserved as ruins. Novgorod's archaeological studies are invaluable for world science.

Kremlin of Novgorod the Great
The walls of the Kremlin. Photo MPV Video

Like all ancient Russian cities, Novgorod the Great has its Kremlin - the political and commercial centre inside the fortress. The Novgorod Kremlin has its own name, it is called Detinets and it is the oldest citadel in the country. It was founded in 1044 on the hill on the left side of the Volkhov River.

It was rebuilt many times over the centuries. The first Detinets was made of wood and therefore did not survive, it burned many times during fires and military conflicts with neighbouring principalities. The walls and towers that we see now are the examples of the military architecture of the 15-17th centuries.

Monument​ to the Millennium of Russia
Monument to the Millennium of Russia

In the centre of the Detinets in 1862 the monument to the Russian Millennium, that I was mentioning in the beginning, was installed. I think that now you understand why this quiet provincial town won that competition. Do you want to know more about the monument?

Apart from the competition between cities, there was a contest of projects for the future monument in which 40 artists participated. As sometimes happens, the project of a winner belonged to a young and unknown sculptor, Mikhail Mikeshin, recently graduated from the Imperial Academy of Fine Arts.

The monument represents the most important historical events of the country through its outstanding characters. In total, there are 128 bronze figures - the governors, military heroes, artists and writers. The upper level of the monument is a giant orb, the symbol of power, crowned with an angel with the cross blessing a kneeled female figure with the Russian coat of arms in her hands.

Novgorod the Great was modernized and restored for the Russia Millennium's celebrations. The population of the city doubled during the celebrations. There was a military parade with 12,000 soldiers and 62 cannon fireworks.

Soon the monument became the symbol of the city and of the nation. It stood in the centre of the Detinets until 1941 when Novgorod was taken over by the Nazi forces. The occupants decided to dismantle the monument and move it in parts to Germany as a trophy. They began to do it in December of 1943, however, on January 20, 1944 the city was liberated by the Soviet army. At that time, the pedestal was practically empty, only large damaged figures and the curved cross remained.

Immediately after the liberation of the city, the restoration began. The monument was reopened without waiting for the end of the war, on November 2, 1944. Almost the entire population of the city came to greet the monument. Witnesses recall that it was a very exciting ceremony. Although the city had no electricity, the monument was lit with headlights and people shouted with enthusiasm: "The monument is ours!"
Yaroslav's Court
Yaroslav's Court

Let us return to the Middle Ages, at that time the city had the second cultural and commercial centre along with the Detinets - the Yaroslav's Court (Yaroslavovo dvorishche in Russian). In the 10th century it was the residence of the great prince of Novgorod, Yaroslav the Wise.

This ancient architectural ensemble lies across the Volkhov River in front of the Detinets. Today there are a dozen of churches, a belfry and a market arcade, completely modified in the 16-17th centuries, but it is the only part of the old palace that we have left. It is likely that the veche of Novgorod gathered on a market square.
The fresco with 4 daughters of Yaroslav the Wise in the Cathedral of St. Sophia in Kiev
The fresco with 4 daughters of Yaroslav the Wise in the Cathedral of St. Sophia in Kiev

Yaroslav the Wise was the Grand Prince of Novgorod and Kiev, who temporarily united both major Russian principalities. During his long reign, medieval Rus' reached the peak of its cultural flourishing and military power.

He established the Novgorod Republic, founded another famous city, Yaroslavl, and promulgated the first code of laws on Russian lands - Yaroslav Justice.

He achieved strong relations with Scandinavians, marrying the daughter of the king of Sweden, and the Byzantine Empire with a favorable treaty and the prestigious marriage of his son Vsevolod to the daughter of the emperor Constantine IX.

The daughters of Yaroslav the Wise became queens in Europe: Elizabeth of Norway, Anastasia of Hungary, and Anne of France, the wife of Henry I. Anastasia and Anne reigned in Hungary and France respectively when their sons were young. It is likely that his other daughter, Agatha, was the wife of the English prince Edward the Exiled and the mother of St. Margaret (the Queen of Scotland).

Cathedral of St. Sophia in Novgorod
Cathedral of St. Sophia

Veliky Novgorod's most famous sight is the Cathedral of St. Sophia (The Holy Wisdom of God) - one of the oldest in Russia. It is located in the Detinets.

The first wooden church of St. Sophia was mentioned in the chronicles of the year 989. And the wonder in stone with 5 domes that we see now was built by the son of Yaroslav the Wise, Prince Vladimir of Novgorod, in honor of his father and as a sign of gratitude to the citizens of the republic. It was consecrated in 1052. Since then the cathedral has been the spiritual and ceremonial centre of the republic and the city. Over the centuries, the people of Novgorod promised "to die for St. Sophia", when going to battles with the enemies.

There are only a few cathedrals in Russia that survived the Mongol Invasion. These types of the cathedrals were constructed only in the 11th century. In many ways, it is similar to the Cathedral of St. Sophia in Kiev, but the Novgorod's Sofia is more monolithic, rigorous and simple, it rises towards the sky. These features always characterize the medieval architecture of Novgorod. The white walls of the cathedral as we see them today originally were not plastered, they used to reveal the natural stone and perfect proportions of the structure.

The interior was painted with frescoes in the 11th-12th centuries. Today only few of them survived and they are difficult to see. There have been many fires during the existence of the cathedral and in the 19th century some parts of the interior were repainted. Also, the original frescoes on the dome fell during World War II.

If you want to learn more about ancient Russian architecture, read our post about the Golden Ring.
Cross with the dove from St. Sophia Novgorod
The main dome of the Cathedral was gilded in the 15th century, and a century later the figure of a dove appeared on its cross - the symbol of the Holy Spirit.

According to the legend, in 1570, when Ivan the Terrible's soldiers attacked Novgorod, a dove sat on the cross of Sofia. After witnessing the massacre, it froze in fear. And Virgin Mary told one of the monks that until the dove is on the cross, the city will be under her protection.

During the Nazi occupation in World War II Novgorod and its cathedral were severely damaged. The great cross in the main dome was removed by Spanish soldiers from the Blue Division and for sixty years it was confined in the Museum of the Military Academy of Engineering in Madrid, until it was discovered by the Spanish brothers Miguel Ángel and Fernando Garrido Polonio, who insisted on its return.

On November 16, 2004 the cross was officially returned to the Russian Orthodox Church by the Spanish Minister of Defense. It was handed over to the cathedral by the Garrido Polonio brothers and it is currently on display inside the Cathedral. What you see now on top of the dome is a replica. In exchange, the Novgorod administration made another copy of the Sofia Cross and presented it to Spain.

Surely when you come here, you will learn more sad and happy stories about St. Sofia's - about its sacred relics and the city that it protects. These white walls know more than all the historians and keep their secrets in silence, but sometimes they reveal them to us little by little.
Church of St. Paraskevi in the Market Novgorod
Church of St. Paraskevi in the Market

Other Prominent Ancient Churches

Sophia is the main cathedral but it is not the only one, there are more than 60 temples in and around Novgorod the Great. Most of the existing churches are outstanding pieces of architecture and they are on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list. In Novgorod there are 13 churches built before the Mongol Invasion, more than in any other medieval region of Rus'.

Here I am going to tell you only about 2 more churches. The first is the 13th century Church of St. Paraskevi-Pyatnitsa.

It is located in the commercial part of the Yaroslav Court, it burned down 15 times, but they always reestablished it keeping its initial appearance. It is dedicated to St. Paraskevi who was very popular in Veliky Novgorod, because she was the patron saint of merchants. Her image comes from the myths of Slavic tribes, based on the personification of Friday, pyantitsa in Russian, the day of the week when the markets operated in Russian cities.

At the same time, this saint was linked to the cult of the main female goddess of the Slavic pantheon and also protected women, helping them with marriage and childbirth.

It is now functioning as the Veliki Novgorod Museum of Architecture and it is open for visitors.

Until now women come to this church to ask for help with marriage. If you want to get married well, you need to walk around the church 3 times counterclockwise and better at dawn. I don't know if it works, but you can clearly see a path surrounding the church.
Church of the Transfiguration on Ilyina Street
Church of the Transfiguration on Ilyina Street

I can't finish our post without mentioning the Church of the Transfiguration on Ilyina Street on the 14th century.

It is quite humble, elegant and typical in its exterior appearance to other old churches, but inside it has the only frescoes of Theophanes the Greek. This legendary medieval artist was the Byzantine Greek born in Constantinople, but he is recognized as one of the great Russian painters. He did most of his works in ancient Rus', in the Principalities of Moscow and Novgorod the Great.

Theophanes arrived to Novgorod in 1370 and this church was the first painted by the artist in our country, at least as we know it now. Today only fragments of his frescoes are preserved, but with them we can estimate the greatness of Theophanes's talent. And in any case, what we have is the only example of frescoes by this great artist in the world.

Watch this short video to appreciate the beauty and power of these unique frescoes:

Theophanes the Greek 's influence on the development of Russian art is difficult to underestimate, it is visible in the frescoes, icons and even in the book graphics. His philosophy and a powerful way of drawing were perceived by all local masters, including Andrei Rublev, the most famous medieval Russian painter.
I have told you only a little about Novgorod the Great, its great monuments, heroes and legends. If you are interested in medieval history and the origins of our culture, you will surely come one day to see everything with your own eyes. And I have no doubt that the city does not leave you indifferent.

I will finish the post with the story about two Argentine cats who are called Veliki and Novgorod. Its owner, the soprano from Buenos Aires, visited Veliky Novgorod with a tour and when she returned home she got these charming kittens-brothers. Her Russian tour impressed her so much that she decided to call her cats in memory of the city with which she fell in love forever.
Argentinian cats Veliki and Novgorod
As Marina says what moved her most was: «this intimate, friendly, serene city. I really enjoyed walking through its streets with old churches and traveling to another era. And another surprising thing was the use of many pastel colours in architecture and thus the picturesque and excellent contrast with pure groves of different colours».

Come visit Novgorod the Great and then we compare what will impress you the most. There are so many wonderful things I haven't told you about yet and I'll be happy to meet you here!

Text Karina Carusel Tours
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