3 May 2020
Charm of Wooden Moscow. Estates of Famous Russian Writers and Musicians Open for Visitors
Former printing house and office of Leo Tolstoy in his Khamovniki Estate
Let us dive into the world of old wooden Moscow together! We will visit 5 wooden estates where famous Russian writers and musicians used to live - opera bass Feodor Chaliapin, poet Alexander Pushkin, playwright Alexander Ostrovsky,writers Leo Tolstoy and Ivan Turgenev.
Moscow has more wooden buildings than you might think, but some of them have successfully disguised themselves behind tones of stucco moulding!
The history of old Moscow houses is divided into two parts – there are the ones that survived the Great Fire of 1812 and the ones that were built after the fire. In 1812, during the retreat of the Napoleon Army, most of Moscow, including almost all its wooden buildings, burned to the ground. We still don't know the names of the instigators of that terrible fire, some people blame the French, others – locals.
Surprisingly, 3 of 5 wooden estates, mentioned in this post, survived the Great Fire, as well as the turbulent 20th century and you have no excuse not to visit at least some of them if you get to Moscow!
Now these estates are the oases of peace in the midst of a noisy metropolis, and from May to October, their cosy courtyards are blooming with flowers and invite us to sit back on a bench and relax!
In this post, we will visit them together, first virtually, and then you will be able to explore them in more detail during your trip to Moscow. All the estates are now the museums open for everyone for a small entrance fee. During some holidays, such as the Museum Night or Day of Moscow, you can visit them for free.
You can see all 5 estates on the map here
Let us dive into the world of old wooden Moscow together! We will visit 5 wooden estates where famous Russian writers and musicians used to live - opera bass Feodor Chaliapin, poet Alexander Pushkin, playwright Alexander Ostrovsky,writers Leo Tolstoy and Ivan Turgenev.
Moscow has more wooden buildings than you might think, but some of them have successfully disguised themselves behind tones of stucco moulding!
The history of old Moscow houses is divided into two parts – there are the ones that survived the Great Fire of 1812 and the ones that were built after the fire. In 1812, during the retreat of the Napoleon Army, most of Moscow, including almost all its wooden buildings, burned to the ground. We still don't know the names of the instigators of that terrible fire, some people blame the French, others – locals.
Surprisingly, 3 of 5 wooden estates, mentioned in this post, survived the Great Fire, as well as the turbulent 20th century and you have no excuse not to visit at least some of them if you get to Moscow!
Now these estates are the oases of peace in the midst of a noisy metropolis, and from May to October, their cosy courtyards are blooming with flowers and invite us to sit back on a bench and relax!
In this post, we will visit them together, first virtually, and then you will be able to explore them in more detail during your trip to Moscow. All the estates are now the museums open for everyone for a small entrance fee. During some holidays, such as the Museum Night or Day of Moscow, you can visit them for free.
You can see all 5 estates on the map here
Feodor Chaliapin's Estate
25 Novinsky Boulevard
Chaliapin's mansion is among those Moscow buildings that take you by surprise when you accidently find out that they are actually wooden. This plastered house is one of the oldest wooden buildings of the capital, it was constructed in the late 18th century and survived the Fire of 1812.
Now it stands in the middle of the bustling Garden Ring and most passers-by know neither that the mansion is wooden, nor that there is a nice little garden with singing birds and blooming flowers hidden in its courtyard.
During recent restoration works, when thick layers of plaster were removed from the facade, many people were astonished to discover thick timber logs behind it, and, I must confess, I was one of them. Since then, I became interested in wooden Moscow!
At the beginning of the 20th century, the house was bought and restored by the famous opera bass Feodor Chaliapin. Iola Tarnagi, the first wife of Chaliapin and a native of Italy, became the mistress of the house and she lived here through the Soviet Times, when Chaliapin himself emigrated. She convinced Bolsheviks to create here a museum of Chaliapin, and that is how the house and its interiors were preserved.
Now the mansion and its guest wing regularly hosts concerts and exhibitions. The permanent exposition is also very interesting - it guides us through the lives of Chaliapin and his first family.
Exclusively for this museum, video recipes of Chaliapin's favourite dishes, narrated by an Italian chef, were created. These are the dishes that Chaliapin's Italian wife masterly prepared for him. The recipes are an unusual mix of Russian and Italian cuisines.
Young Italian ballerina Iola Tarnagi came to Russia on a tour sponsored by the famous philanthropist Savva Mamontov. Young Chaliapin, who also participated in this tour, fell madly in love with her. He was very persistent in asking for her hand and he finally succeeded.
The couple settled in this house on Novinsky Boulevard and Iola devoted herself entirely to the growing family - together they had 6 children, 5 of whom survived to adulthood.
Unfortunately, the marriage broke up as Chaliapin started to live in St. Petersburg with his new lover, Maria Petzold, with whom they had 3 more children and eventually emigrated in 1922. Chaliapin's apartment in St. Petersburg is now also a museum, highly recommend to visit.
And Iola remained to live in the Soviet Union. She returned to Rome only a few years before her death during the Khrushchev Thaw with the assistance of one of her sons - Feodor Chaliapin Junior, which some of you may have seen in such films as The Name of Rose and Moonstruck.
25 Novinsky Boulevard
Chaliapin's mansion is among those Moscow buildings that take you by surprise when you accidently find out that they are actually wooden. This plastered house is one of the oldest wooden buildings of the capital, it was constructed in the late 18th century and survived the Fire of 1812.
Now it stands in the middle of the bustling Garden Ring and most passers-by know neither that the mansion is wooden, nor that there is a nice little garden with singing birds and blooming flowers hidden in its courtyard.
During recent restoration works, when thick layers of plaster were removed from the facade, many people were astonished to discover thick timber logs behind it, and, I must confess, I was one of them. Since then, I became interested in wooden Moscow!
At the beginning of the 20th century, the house was bought and restored by the famous opera bass Feodor Chaliapin. Iola Tarnagi, the first wife of Chaliapin and a native of Italy, became the mistress of the house and she lived here through the Soviet Times, when Chaliapin himself emigrated. She convinced Bolsheviks to create here a museum of Chaliapin, and that is how the house and its interiors were preserved.
Now the mansion and its guest wing regularly hosts concerts and exhibitions. The permanent exposition is also very interesting - it guides us through the lives of Chaliapin and his first family.
Exclusively for this museum, video recipes of Chaliapin's favourite dishes, narrated by an Italian chef, were created. These are the dishes that Chaliapin's Italian wife masterly prepared for him. The recipes are an unusual mix of Russian and Italian cuisines.
Young Italian ballerina Iola Tarnagi came to Russia on a tour sponsored by the famous philanthropist Savva Mamontov. Young Chaliapin, who also participated in this tour, fell madly in love with her. He was very persistent in asking for her hand and he finally succeeded.
The couple settled in this house on Novinsky Boulevard and Iola devoted herself entirely to the growing family - together they had 6 children, 5 of whom survived to adulthood.
Unfortunately, the marriage broke up as Chaliapin started to live in St. Petersburg with his new lover, Maria Petzold, with whom they had 3 more children and eventually emigrated in 1922. Chaliapin's apartment in St. Petersburg is now also a museum, highly recommend to visit.
And Iola remained to live in the Soviet Union. She returned to Rome only a few years before her death during the Khrushchev Thaw with the assistance of one of her sons - Feodor Chaliapin Junior, which some of you may have seen in such films as The Name of Rose and Moonstruck.
Mansion of Alexander Pushkin's Uncle
36 Staraya Basmannaya Street
The capital has a lot of addresses that are related to the life of Alexander Pushkin, the author of Eugene Onegin and the greatest Russian poet of all times. The one that I will recommend you to visit is the newly opened museum in the house of Pushkin's uncle. His name was Vasily Pushkin and he was also a poet! He rented a wooden mansion on Staraya (Old) Basmannaya Street - one of the hubs of aristocratic Moscow. Here lived the nobility.
The wooden house was built immediately after the fire of 1812 on the on the old foundation of the burnt building. Vasily Pushkin rented it in 1824 and it was the first place where young Alexander Pushkin stayed after his return from the two-year exile in his family estate in Mikhailovskoe. He probably lived in a cosy room under the roof.
Alexander Pushkin was very fond of his uncle, as well as his literary works. His beloved uncle died in 1830, just before the wedding of Alexander Pushkin. The poet mourned deeply. "Never before has any uncle died so inappropriately" – he wrote.
The museum was opened in 2013 and a little has survived from the original furnishings of the house - the layout, old doors, a tiled stove in the living room and some parts of the oak floor. Nevertheless, the restorers have done a great job in recreating the atmosphere of a typical Moscow mansion of middle-class noblemen of the first half of the 19th century. They have carefully chosen the antique furniture that perfectly complements the interior.
If you want to immerse yourself into that epoch, check out this nice little museum!
By the way, Alexander Pushkin himself was born not far from here - in the house at the intersection of Hospital Lane and Malaya Pochtovaya Street. The house does not exist anymore, but you can take a 15-min walk to see the original spot and recreate the atmosphere of aristocratic Moscow of that time in your imagination!
36 Staraya Basmannaya Street
The capital has a lot of addresses that are related to the life of Alexander Pushkin, the author of Eugene Onegin and the greatest Russian poet of all times. The one that I will recommend you to visit is the newly opened museum in the house of Pushkin's uncle. His name was Vasily Pushkin and he was also a poet! He rented a wooden mansion on Staraya (Old) Basmannaya Street - one of the hubs of aristocratic Moscow. Here lived the nobility.
The wooden house was built immediately after the fire of 1812 on the on the old foundation of the burnt building. Vasily Pushkin rented it in 1824 and it was the first place where young Alexander Pushkin stayed after his return from the two-year exile in his family estate in Mikhailovskoe. He probably lived in a cosy room under the roof.
Alexander Pushkin was very fond of his uncle, as well as his literary works. His beloved uncle died in 1830, just before the wedding of Alexander Pushkin. The poet mourned deeply. "Never before has any uncle died so inappropriately" – he wrote.
The museum was opened in 2013 and a little has survived from the original furnishings of the house - the layout, old doors, a tiled stove in the living room and some parts of the oak floor. Nevertheless, the restorers have done a great job in recreating the atmosphere of a typical Moscow mansion of middle-class noblemen of the first half of the 19th century. They have carefully chosen the antique furniture that perfectly complements the interior.
If you want to immerse yourself into that epoch, check out this nice little museum!
By the way, Alexander Pushkin himself was born not far from here - in the house at the intersection of Hospital Lane and Malaya Pochtovaya Street. The house does not exist anymore, but you can take a 15-min walk to see the original spot and recreate the atmosphere of aristocratic Moscow of that time in your imagination!
In photo Pushkin Museum on Prechistenka Street
The main branch of the Pushkin Museum in Moscow is also located in a wooden mansion. From outside this chic mansion in the empire style looks like a 100% stone building, but the layers of stucco moulding skilfully hide the wooden walls.
It stands on Prechistenka Street, not far from the museum and the estate of Leo Tolstoy that I will be mentioning below. However, this house is in no way connected with Pushkin - among the numerous addresses of old Moscow that the outgoing poet visited, this one never appeared. The newly created Pushkin Museum was allocated in this mansion soon after the revolution.
The main branch of the Pushkin Museum in Moscow is also located in a wooden mansion. From outside this chic mansion in the empire style looks like a 100% stone building, but the layers of stucco moulding skilfully hide the wooden walls.
It stands on Prechistenka Street, not far from the museum and the estate of Leo Tolstoy that I will be mentioning below. However, this house is in no way connected with Pushkin - among the numerous addresses of old Moscow that the outgoing poet visited, this one never appeared. The newly created Pushkin Museum was allocated in this mansion soon after the revolution.
Museum of Alexander Ostrovsky in Zamoskvorechye
9/12 b.6 Malaya Ordynka Street
This is perhaps the oldest wooden house in present-day Moscow, located in the charming neighbourhood of Zamoskvorechye, the former merchant's land. Zamoskvorechye literally means "beyond the Moskva River" – it is the district on the opposite bank of the Moskva River, right behind the Bolotny Island and Kremlin.
The house was constructed for the Church of the Intercession of the Holy Virgin in the late 17th century, since then it has been rebuilt many times.
In this house in 1823 Alexander Ostrovsky was born, one of the most famous Russian playwrights, his plays are staged by Russian theatres as often as Chekhov's. His father rented an apartment on the ground floor of the house, and Ostrovsky was baptized in the church that I have just mentioned.
Sadly, the church was demolished by the Bolsheviks in 1931 for no apparent reason. The wooden house has surprisingly outlived the stone church, for which it was once built. Some icons from this church can now be seen inside this house. Now a small monument to Ostrovsky stands on the site of the church.
In Soviet times, the house was divided into several communal apartments. The Museum of Ostrovsky was opened here in 1984. Its collection includes antique lamps, candlesticks, samovars and shawls generously presented to the museum by the locals of Zamoskovrechye. There are also original items that belonged to Ostrovsky and his relatives.
Before the revolution Zamoskvorechye was inhabited by merchants, known for their patriarchal traditions and philanthropy. It is here that the famous collection of the Tretyakov Gallery is located, created by merchant Tretyakov.
See our Zamoskvorechye and the Tretyakov Gallery Tour
Zamoskvorechye had its own fashion and the style of life and it was strikingly different from the other districts of Moscow. Ostrovsky, who was deeply fond of Russian merchants and this neighbourhood, called it no less than Zamoskvorechye Country, and the plot of his comedy play, The Marriage of Balsaminov, takes place here.
Here is what Ostrovsky wrote about Zamoskvorechye and its inhabitants:
"When we have a holiday beyond the Moskva River, one can feel it straight away ... Firstly, because you will hear a thick and continuous bell ringing in all Zamoskvorechye. Secondly, you will smell pies in all Zamoskvorechye. It should be noted that nowhere else you will find such large and loud bells as ours beyond the Moskva River, and nowhere else they bake such pies with the aroma that spreads throughout the whole district."
9/12 b.6 Malaya Ordynka Street
This is perhaps the oldest wooden house in present-day Moscow, located in the charming neighbourhood of Zamoskvorechye, the former merchant's land. Zamoskvorechye literally means "beyond the Moskva River" – it is the district on the opposite bank of the Moskva River, right behind the Bolotny Island and Kremlin.
The house was constructed for the Church of the Intercession of the Holy Virgin in the late 17th century, since then it has been rebuilt many times.
In this house in 1823 Alexander Ostrovsky was born, one of the most famous Russian playwrights, his plays are staged by Russian theatres as often as Chekhov's. His father rented an apartment on the ground floor of the house, and Ostrovsky was baptized in the church that I have just mentioned.
Sadly, the church was demolished by the Bolsheviks in 1931 for no apparent reason. The wooden house has surprisingly outlived the stone church, for which it was once built. Some icons from this church can now be seen inside this house. Now a small monument to Ostrovsky stands on the site of the church.
In Soviet times, the house was divided into several communal apartments. The Museum of Ostrovsky was opened here in 1984. Its collection includes antique lamps, candlesticks, samovars and shawls generously presented to the museum by the locals of Zamoskovrechye. There are also original items that belonged to Ostrovsky and his relatives.
Before the revolution Zamoskvorechye was inhabited by merchants, known for their patriarchal traditions and philanthropy. It is here that the famous collection of the Tretyakov Gallery is located, created by merchant Tretyakov.
See our Zamoskvorechye and the Tretyakov Gallery Tour
Zamoskvorechye had its own fashion and the style of life and it was strikingly different from the other districts of Moscow. Ostrovsky, who was deeply fond of Russian merchants and this neighbourhood, called it no less than Zamoskvorechye Country, and the plot of his comedy play, The Marriage of Balsaminov, takes place here.
Here is what Ostrovsky wrote about Zamoskvorechye and its inhabitants:
"When we have a holiday beyond the Moskva River, one can feel it straight away ... Firstly, because you will hear a thick and continuous bell ringing in all Zamoskvorechye. Secondly, you will smell pies in all Zamoskvorechye. It should be noted that nowhere else you will find such large and loud bells as ours beyond the Moskva River, and nowhere else they bake such pies with the aroma that spreads throughout the whole district."
Here you will often see a merchant in a suit from the times of Ivan the Terrible accompanied by his wife, dressed in the latest Parisian fashion" - Alexander Ostrovsky about Zamoskvorechye
The House of Ostrovsky is located very close to the main building of the Tretyakov Gallery and a stone's throw from the Tretyakovskaya metro station. So, if you plan to spend the day in Zamoskvorechye and visit the Tretyakov Gallery, you can also check out the Museum of Ostrovsky!
Leo Tolstoy's Estate in Khamovniki
21 Leo Tolstoy Street
This beautiful estate is located in another picturesque district of Moscow, Khamovniki. Khamovniki was founded as the settlement of weavers, hence the name of the district.
Now it is one of the greenest areas of central Moscow that has the architectural mixture of all times and styles - ancient stone buildings, churches, old wooden houses, industrial factories of the late 19th century and countless Soviet buildings. I recommend you to take a walk in this area!
The estate itself was built between 1800-1805 and its main building survived the Fire of 1812, although it was significantly rebuilt afterwards.
Tolstoy bought this house in 1882 for his growing family, he was particularly attracted by the large orchard and the proximity of the estate to the Private School of Polivanov on Prechistenka Street, where his children studied.
Read our post about Moscow of Tolstoy in Culture Tourist Blog
See our Tolstoy in Moscow Tour
In this house, Tolstoy wrote some of his renown works, including the novel Resurrection, and set up his own printing house.
Now the museum looks just as during the lifetime of the famous writer - all the original furnishing has been preserved! Here you will see the writer's desk and a chair with short legs and vividly imagine how Tolstoy literally touched the notes with his nose while writing (he was short-sighted), appreciate the bike that the writer learned to ride when he was 60-something and find a pair of boots sewn by Tolstoy for his friend.
From May to October there are always wonderful outdoor events, concerts and cinema screenings taking place in the territory of the estate. In May, fragrant lilac bushes of all colours hang from the carved wooden fence of the estate and fill the air all around with wonderful fragrance of spring! Even computer geeks from the nearby Yandex headquarters (Russian competitor of Google) take a moment to tear themselves away from their gadgets and breathe in its fragrance.
21 Leo Tolstoy Street
This beautiful estate is located in another picturesque district of Moscow, Khamovniki. Khamovniki was founded as the settlement of weavers, hence the name of the district.
Now it is one of the greenest areas of central Moscow that has the architectural mixture of all times and styles - ancient stone buildings, churches, old wooden houses, industrial factories of the late 19th century and countless Soviet buildings. I recommend you to take a walk in this area!
The estate itself was built between 1800-1805 and its main building survived the Fire of 1812, although it was significantly rebuilt afterwards.
Tolstoy bought this house in 1882 for his growing family, he was particularly attracted by the large orchard and the proximity of the estate to the Private School of Polivanov on Prechistenka Street, where his children studied.
Read our post about Moscow of Tolstoy in Culture Tourist Blog
See our Tolstoy in Moscow Tour
In this house, Tolstoy wrote some of his renown works, including the novel Resurrection, and set up his own printing house.
Now the museum looks just as during the lifetime of the famous writer - all the original furnishing has been preserved! Here you will see the writer's desk and a chair with short legs and vividly imagine how Tolstoy literally touched the notes with his nose while writing (he was short-sighted), appreciate the bike that the writer learned to ride when he was 60-something and find a pair of boots sewn by Tolstoy for his friend.
From May to October there are always wonderful outdoor events, concerts and cinema screenings taking place in the territory of the estate. In May, fragrant lilac bushes of all colours hang from the carved wooden fence of the estate and fill the air all around with wonderful fragrance of spring! Even computer geeks from the nearby Yandex headquarters (Russian competitor of Google) take a moment to tear themselves away from their gadgets and breathe in its fragrance.
Speaking of Yandex, its main office is currently located right in front of the Tolstoy's estate in the buildings of the former textile factory. Its presence made the neighbourhood very trendy and filled it with numerous cafes, bars and restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets.
On the same narrow street, that now bears the name of Leo Tolstoy, you will find several wooden buildings, 17th century chambers of weavers and a beautiful multi-colour church of St. Nicholas from the same period. The entrance to the church is free for everyone, so do not hesitate to visit it!
Photo from State Museum of Leo Tolstoy
Here is another wooden building, that is disguised as a stone one. This aristocratic mansion of the 19th century is currently the main building of the Tolstoy Museum where his manuscripts are held.
Just like the main building of the Pushkin Museum, this one is also wooden, it is also situated on Prechistenka Street and it also has nothing to do with the writer that the museum is named after! Leo Tolstoy never visited this mansion.
Here is another wooden building, that is disguised as a stone one. This aristocratic mansion of the 19th century is currently the main building of the Tolstoy Museum where his manuscripts are held.
Just like the main building of the Pushkin Museum, this one is also wooden, it is also situated on Prechistenka Street and it also has nothing to do with the writer that the museum is named after! Leo Tolstoy never visited this mansion.
Museum of Ivan Turgenev
37/7 b.1 Ostozhenka Street
Neighbouring Prechistenka and Ostozhenka Streets are filled with the museums of Russian writers! Have you noticed a graffiti on a firewall with a grey-bearded man with a dog? This is Ivan Turgenev, another prominent Russian writer who, before Tolstoy and Dostoevsky appeared on the horizon, enjoyed great fame in Russia and abroad.
One-story grey wooden mansion nearby is popularly known as the Mumu House. Mumu is the name of the dog from the famous same-titled short-story of Turgenev.
This house was built soon after the Fire of 1812, here lived the mother of Turgenev and he often stayed here when he visited Moscow. She was a powerful and cruel woman, and the plot of the short story Mumu actually took place in this house – Turgenev wrote it from the real life.
The yardman of his mother and the puppy that he saved from drowning in the Moskva River became the prototypes of the main characters in the story, deaf-mute Gerasim and his dog Mumu. The puppy with time grew into a beautiful dog, much to the joy of Gerasim and other servants, but Turgenev's mother did not like it and she ordered Gerasim to get rid of it.
In Soviet times, the mansion was divided into communal apartments, the Turgenev Museum was opened here only in 2009. Although little in this building has been preserved from the Turgenev's epoch, it is an interesting place to visit. And again, it has its own little garden open for all visitors.
37/7 b.1 Ostozhenka Street
Neighbouring Prechistenka and Ostozhenka Streets are filled with the museums of Russian writers! Have you noticed a graffiti on a firewall with a grey-bearded man with a dog? This is Ivan Turgenev, another prominent Russian writer who, before Tolstoy and Dostoevsky appeared on the horizon, enjoyed great fame in Russia and abroad.
One-story grey wooden mansion nearby is popularly known as the Mumu House. Mumu is the name of the dog from the famous same-titled short-story of Turgenev.
This house was built soon after the Fire of 1812, here lived the mother of Turgenev and he often stayed here when he visited Moscow. She was a powerful and cruel woman, and the plot of the short story Mumu actually took place in this house – Turgenev wrote it from the real life.
The yardman of his mother and the puppy that he saved from drowning in the Moskva River became the prototypes of the main characters in the story, deaf-mute Gerasim and his dog Mumu. The puppy with time grew into a beautiful dog, much to the joy of Gerasim and other servants, but Turgenev's mother did not like it and she ordered Gerasim to get rid of it.
In Soviet times, the mansion was divided into communal apartments, the Turgenev Museum was opened here only in 2009. Although little in this building has been preserved from the Turgenev's epoch, it is an interesting place to visit. And again, it has its own little garden open for all visitors.
By looking attentively at this house you can spot an interesting feature typical for old Moscow - the facade on the street has one floor, but on the side there is one more floor and an attic with living quarters. In Moscow of the first half of the 19th century there existed a tax for each extra floor on the main facade of the buildings. Therefore, most houses had one floor on their front facades, and were supplemented by spacious and tax-free attics and basements. Side facades of such buildings often surprisingly reveal two or even three extra floors.
There is another tiny wooden house across the street, popularly known as the House of the Master from the Master and Margarita by M. Bulgakov, but this is a topic of another post!
Text by Alexandra Carusel Tours
Text by Alexandra Carusel Tours